Ha Giang highlights and travel guide
Ha Giang overview
Like much of Vietnam, Ha Giang has had a turbulent past with invasions from both neighbouring China and the French colonials but today the magnificent mountain region sits quietly in peace. Now it is home to ethnic minority communities such the Tay, H’mong, Nung, Giay, Lo Lo and Pu Peo who all have their own unique and fascinating cultures. The interaction of environment and people is evident in the scenery with the iconic terraces of rice fields spilling down the edges of the vast mountains.
Ha Giang is the perfect place to explore on bike or by foot, climbing the dizzying passing that clings to the sides of the mountains to experience unrivalled views of the incredible border region.
See and Do
Tucked away in the valley village of Sa Phin, guarded by rows of tall trees, and encased by a stone wall, sits the regal Vuong Palace. Built in 1914 for Vuong Chinh Duc, a Hmong king, this palace has survived both the French and American wars. The large structure features intricate carvings of poppies which represent the opium that was once traded here. You can get a feel for the life of a rich H’mong king as you wander through the ornately decorated rooms and imagine the hoards of precious goods that were stored in underground rooms.
One of the best ways to take in the stunning scenery of Ha Giang is with a road trip either by motorbike or 4×4 vehicle. The mountainous roads will show you the amazing, unspoilt, natural beauty of this border region. One of the most popular routes is from Dong Van town to Meo Vac along the astonishing Mai Pi Leng Pass. This winding road appears to be perched precariously on the edge of the staggering mountains. The long thin road cuts through the cascading terraces of rice paddies. Driving along this stunning pass, among the towering mountains will make you feel incredibly small as if you are lost in the immensity of nature. From here you will have unrivalled views of the winding and glassy Nho Que river that snakes between the two sides of the mountain range.
Another stunning road trip runs along Quan Ba Pass which overlooks a Red Dao village. The view from this great height spans the karst geopark with the patchwork of the plateau in the foreground and the mountains fading into the distance.
As you drive along these dizzying mountain roads, you are sure to be captivated by the incredible artistry of the rice paddies that are sculpted into the soaring mountains. The best place to see this is the are of Hoang Sui Phi where the tiny scattered villages rely on rice agriculture to survive. The cascading paddies of this remote land are some of the most dramatic in the whole of Vietnam. Surrounded on either side by waterfalls of green that start high in the skies and tumble elegantly down the mountains, you can’t help but feel lost in the power of nature. This is the perfect example of how humans can interact with nature to create something beautiful and harmonious. This remote area, unknown to most tourists is also the perfect place to meet some of the local people living in the ethnic minority communities. The area is home to H’mong, Red Dao and Nung ethnic groups, who all have unique traditions and cultures. You can discover more about their heritages and uncover the secrets of rice farming as you travel through this remarkable area. You can even stay with one of the local families and discover their hospitality and kindness.
Another place with spectacular views of Ha Giang is the Lung Cu Flag Tower. This octagonal tower sits proudly atop a green carpeted mountain, flying a giant Vietnamese flag. This symbol of national pride demarcates the northernmost point of Vietnam. You can climb the tower for an incredible panoramic view of Ha Giang’s beautifully preserved countryside.
Culture and Arts
Another unique market is the Meo Vac Cattle Market, also held on Sunday but at the other end of the stunning Mai Pi Leng Pass. This market gives you the chance to explore the H’mong culture and meet the local people. Here you can see their traditional outfits; the men dressed in their simple black attire, and the women dressed in their beautifully embroidered ensembles and colourful head scarfs. Many of the villagers bring their finest animals either to sell or simply to show off their hard work. The usual market rhythm of bartering and chit-chat is accompanied by an orchestra of animal noises and the sound of children playing.
Festivals and Events
Another unique and exciting festival in Ha Giang is the annual Pa Then Fire Dance Festival. Held in Bac Quang in October and November of the lunar calender, this is the traditional festival of the Pa Then ethnic minority community. Ceremonies and rituals are held to pray to the fire god for luck, health and happiness. After, the men of the village show their bravery as they perform impressive leaping dances on flaming fires. Their absence of fear enhances the admiration as the rest of the villagers gather round, the women dressed in remarkable traditional outfits to cheer and applaud their courage.
Because of the agricultural lifestyle of many of the communities in Ha Giang, there are lots of festivals that pray for favourable crop growing conditions. The Lo Lo ethnic minority community holds a Rain Festival each year during the dry months of March. The festival features offerings to the mother and father of the universe to ask for good weather. All of the villagers come together in their traditional, colourful outfits and each household makes a contribution. People play the traditional instruments of bronze drums and two-stringed fiddles and the village mystic invites ancestral spirits to join the ceremony. After the ceremony, there is a lively celebration where people can share delicious local food and drink and people engage in folk dancing and traditional games.
Food and Drink
Five colour sticky rice is another signature dish of this northern province. This can be found at any market and is much a treat for the eyes as it is for the stomach. Sticky rice is cooked and then dyed using five natural colourings such as turmeric and tree leaves. The brightly dyed rice in contrasting colours is then delicately arranged to make this unique and beautiful dish. The different arrangements are said to represent the yin and yang of the world and offer an insight into the cultural views of philosophy.
A delicious snack to pick up along your travels through the magnificent mountains is Trung Cuon. Ha Giang’s rolled egg dish, where an egg is rolled into delicate rice paper and then steamed. The soft roll is then dipped into the special sauce making for a tasty and nutritious snack.
To accompany the distinctive local dishes, Ha Giang offers some beverages which are unique to the area. As well as the usual offerings of the potent and intoxicating rice wine, Thanh Van corn wine is also a popular drink. Made from the corn grown in the area, the local people have developed a filtration system which makes for a cleaner, less toxic product. You can find this regional favourite at markets where people warm themselves after a hard day’s work, bonding over a cup or two of corn wine.